Wool worsted can also be "thin as a flap"


——Research and application of key technologies for integrating spinning crepe wing yarn ultra-thin worsted fabric

Host: Our reporter Tao Wei

Guest: Pan Feng, Director of Jingfang General Textile Factory

Liu Gangzhong, deputy director and chief designer of Shandong Nanshan Textile Apparel Co., Ltd.

When it comes to the thinness of clothing, the first thing that comes to mind in most people's minds is the fabrics such as yarn and silk. I don't think that people's constant challenge to textile technology has given the once thick wool a chance to become a lightweight fashion darling. The project “Research and Application of Key Technologies for Integrated Spinning Wool Wings and Ultra-thin Worsted Fabrics” jointly completed by Shannan Dongshan Textile Apparel Co., Ltd. and Xi'an Engineering University successfully achieved this goal, which is to improve the traditional textile and apparel products in China. Grades and technological content, increasing their added value and improving market competitiveness have greatly promoted.

According to Pan Feng, director of Nanshan Company's Jingfang General Factory, the company successfully used this technology to spin more than Nm500/2 yarns and successfully developed fabrics weighing only 60g per square meter. The physical indicators and performance of the products. All meet the requirements of national standard superior products. The one-piece shirt produced using this fabric weighs only 135g, realizing the dream that the silk fabric is as thin as a flap and light as smoke.

- "Single 135g" is achieved

Moderator: What technologies should be developed for making such a thin silk fabric?

Pan Feng: We mainly started research and development from five aspects: First, the selection and pre-treatment of raw materials: scouring and processing of ultra-fine wool, and further refining silk fibers.

Followed by strip dyeing processing: using environmentally friendly wool reactive dye low-temperature dyeing process, all kinds of color fastness are higher than or meet the standard requirements, reducing the strong damage to the fiber in the dyeing process.

Next is the spinning process: mainly through the design adjustment of the relevant main process components, the formation of a new spinning technology including a compact spinning crown triangle, two siro Phil plus 捻 zone.

Once again, the fabric design and weaving process: from the full expression of ultra-light, ultra-thin texture, the feel and color of silk fiber, complete the design of the integrated spinning crepe wing yarn ultra-thin worsted fabric. Through the use of a new high-efficiency cationic slurry, the cold sizing technology of silk crepe yarns was studied, and a low-tension, low-velocity weaving was performed using a rigid rapier looms.

Finally, the finishing work is carried out: after the finishing process is completed, the preferred work of each wet and dry finishing process is finished, especially the flat-width high-temperature retreating technology is used to carry out the research on the retreating process to ensure the ultra-thin worsted fabric of the silky crepe yarn. The performance indicators of the use have reached the requirements of normal fabrics.

Moderator: Where is the innovation of this technology for integrated spinning ultra-thin fabrics?

Pan Feng: There are four main points in the innovation and advancement of this project, including low-temperature reactive dye wool dyeing technology: this innovation belongs to the field of wool textile dyeing technology. It is reasonable to compare the normal temperature and low temperature dyeing with environmentally friendly reactive dyes. The low-temperature dyeing process of wool can reduce the strong damage of protein fiber in the dyeing process under the conditions that the color fastness is higher than or meet the standard requirements, and effectively prevent the color flower caused by uneven coloration.

Integrated spinning technology: integrated spinning technology integrates cutting-edge technologies in textile materials, equipment and processes, and creatively combines spinning technology, concentrated spinning technology and Sirofil spinning technology. The advantage of a variety of spinning technology, invented the gathering of Sirofil spinning technology, spinning ultra-high count silk yarn. The yarn is formed in one step on the spinning frame, and the process flow is shortened without the doubling and twisting process, the production efficiency is improved, the strength of the yarn, the wear resistance and the uniform strip are ensured, and the yarn production rate is improved. .

Rigid rapier weaving technology: This innovation belongs to the field of textile engineering weaving technology. We adopt new high-efficiency cationic slurry, sizing with cold sizing technology, choose Dornier rigid rapier loom, use small tension, low speed, guarantee The weft yarn is minimally worn, and the woven fabric of the high-support ultra-thin fabric is realized. The weaving process is: warping → wearing comprehensive → over 筘 → upper axis → amplitude modulation → weaving → machine.

Flat-width high-temperature retreat technology: This innovation belongs to the field of wool textile printing and dyeing technology. The purpose is to provide a flat-scale retreat method, which can solve the incomplete dissolution of the vinylon, the wet expansion of the fabric is too high, and it is difficult to ensure that the surface is even and even. The slippery but not soft and rotten feel. The specific method is as follows: the raw fabric of the blended wool, cotton and vinylon is used for flat-panel continuous cooking, and then the fabric is wound on the reel, and the reel is stored for a certain period of time and repeated alternately. The above-mentioned flat-width continuous cooking and reel storage steps are carried out, and after the last flat-width continuous cooking, the grey fabric is directly dried without reel storage to obtain a retreat fabric.

- Ultra-thin worsted spinning has practical value

Moderator: What is the superiority of this technology as an independent research and development project of the company compared with similar technologies at home and abroad?

Liu Gangzhong: The key technology of the project--integrated spinning technology is the first in China and abroad. Compared with domestic embedded spinning technology, the number of spun yarns is higher, and the yarn structure and physical indexes are up to the national standard. Product requirements. Judging from the current domestic and international data retrieval results, our project is still at the leading level in the index of high-country worsted yarn count and worsted wool fabric in weight per square meter.

Moderator: What is the scope and prospect of the promotion and application of ultra-thin worsted spinning? What economic benefits have Nanshan obtained?

Liu Gangzhong: After the promotion of the ultra-thin worsted fabrics of the spun yarns through the branded garments, the fabrics can meet the fabric requirements of high-end branded apparel products, and all kinds of physical and mechanical properties, color fastness and taking performance have reached Requirements for daily use.

In the follow-up research process, we will continue to pay attention to the latest developments in domestic and international materials technology, equipment technology and process technology. We will continue to work hard in the field of high-strength and ultra-thin in the field of worsted textiles to realize the ultra-thin fabrics of worsted fabrics. Multi-component, serial development.

Through a large number of experimental studies, we have successfully carried out industrial production applications, producing a total of 327,500 meters of fabrics, achieving an added value of 131 million yuan, a new profit and tax of 22.27 million yuan, and achieved good economic returns. The National Wool Textile Product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center (Beijing) was commissioned to test the finished fabric specifications, physical and mechanical properties, and dyeing performance. The test results show that all the indicators have reached the leading level of similar performance indicators at home and abroad.

-Exploring a new model of school-enterprise joint

Moderator: The Wool Textile Research Institute of Nanshan·Xi'an Engineering University, established in April 2011, is a milestone in the cooperation between industry, university and research institutes. What practical significance does the establishment of the institute have for enterprises?

Pan Feng: We can conduct scientific research cooperation and new product research and development through this platform, and effectively promote scientific research into economic benefits while promoting scientific research. Relying on the wool spinning research institute, we will increase the integration of science and technology, improve the research and development level of high-end products such as new raw materials, new processes and new functions, and further improve the R&D management system.

The sustainable development of enterprises requires a strong talent team to back up. The research and teaching of the school is inseparable from the support of professional enterprises. The combination of enterprises and schools and related professional institutions is a good channel for students to understand. The needs of enterprises have also transformed the research results of the schools.

The establishment of Nanshan Wool Textile Research Institute has enabled Nanshan's scientific and technological team to be qualitatively strengthened. Based on the company's strong enterprise resource management capabilities, the scientific research results of the front-end of the university have been transformed into necessary, making it a strong driving force for the company's long-term development.

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